Maharashtrian Bridal Jewellery Guide: Must-Have Pieces & Meaning

Maharashtrian bridal jewellery is a perfect combination of culture, traditions and exquisite craftsmanship. For a Marathi bride, the day of her wedding is not only one of the most important days of her life but also deeply culturally significant. On this day, the bride embraces her traditions and culture to the fullest.

The jewellery brides wear symbolises their love for their cultural roots. They embody a grace rooted in history, especially the Maratha and Peshwa eras. From the iconic crescent moon nath to the tinkling green bangles, every piece tells a story. Here is a brief Maharashtrian Bridal Jewellery guide that explains the pieces and their cultural meanings.

Cultural & Spiritual Meaning Behind Each Jewellery Piece

Numerous pieces collectively define a Maharashtrian bride. And every piece holds a deep cultural and spiritual meaning. When a Marathi bride gets ready, it is known as “solah shringar”. The Shringar consists of all the jewels from head to toe. Maharashtrian wedding jewellery list goes as follows:

1. The Head and Face Essentials

Starting from the head and the face, they have sacred essentials such as:

• Mundavalya: A string of pearls tied across the forehead with two vertical strings hanging down. It means that the bride is ready for the marriage.
• Nath: Next, we have the nath that is in the shape of a crescent moon and is worn in place of a nose pin. Maharashtrian bridal nath is different from any other nath in India as it is heavily embellished with basra pearls and a single pink or red ruby in the centre.
• Traditionally, the Marathi nath symbolises a married woman. It comes from the bride’s maternal house with the blessing of a happy married life.
• Ambada Pin: If the Nath is the crown of the face, the pin is the glory of the hair of the Marathi bride. It is a large, ornate gold pin used to secure the traditional hair bun. It is also known as the “suryaphool”. Other ambada pins are crescent-shaped.
  Historically, it is associated with Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, whose royal seal was a crescent moon. It also has a veni phool connection. Marathi women wear garlands of jasmine and marigolds in their hair. The hairpin also symbolises that garland.

2. The Neck holds the Layer of Traditions

Moving on to jewellery that a Maharashtrian bride wears around her neck, we have:

• Thushi: A gold choker made of tiny gold beads woven very closely together is known as Thushi. It signifies the bride’s status as Annapurna, the goddess of food and nourishment of a house. An emotional aspect of it is that it is a blessing for a full life, both in terms of wealth and a growing family.
• Kolhapuri Saaj: It is a long necklace that consists of 21 gold leaves or pendants. Each leaf holds a specific meaning, such as sun, moon, or lotus, to protect the beautiful bride from the evil eye.
• Mohan Maal: The perfectly round, identical beads strung together hold the spiritual meaning of consistency, harmony, and a smooth life.
• Putli Haar: It is another necklace featuring gold coins engraved with the image of Goddess Lakshmi. This symbolises wealth and prosperity.

3. Hands and arms hold symbols of Marital Bliss

The green and gold bangles are the hallmark of a Marathi bride. But these are not it. Her hands are filled with many other ornaments. These are described as follows:

• Hirva Chuda: The green bangles worn in odd numbers are the representation of fertility and “suhaag”.
• Tode: These are intricately carved gold bangles worn at the end of the chuda. Made of solid gold, toh-dey symbolises stree-dhan or a woman’s financial security.
• Patlya: These are the symbols of Gharachi Shaan. Flat gold bangles worn between the green bangles feature various embellishments. These are meant to be passed down to the next generation.
• Vaaki: A vaaki or a baajuband is worn on the upper arm. The Marathi vaki has a special shape and weight. It is a symbol of shakti, worn by warrior women in the past. It is believed to act as a shield against the “evil eye”.

4. The Ears and feet complete the whole look.

These smaller pieces are worn in the ears and feet by the bride, thus completing her bridal look:

• Kudya: In Maharashtrian culture, pearls hold a special meaning. They symbolise water, the moon, and purity. Kudya are quintessential Maharashtrian earrings that are a cluster of pearls, traditionally seven, arranged in a floral pattern around a central gold or gemstone core.
• Jodvi: These are silver toe rings gifted by the mother-in-law. This signifies the blessed entry of the bride into her marital home.

How Modern Brides Are Styling Traditional Maharashtrian Jewellery?

In the 21st century, Maharashtrian brides are not only following the script but also rewriting it. It’s the new dawn where they are embracing the culture and wearing it in their own ways. A few of them are as follows:

Instead of piling more and more pieces, the modern Marathi brides are keeping one hero piece and using the rest as supplements. For instance, they would go for heavy thushi pieces rather than wear mohan maal or kolhapuri saaj.

• Modern brides are also incorporating contrast and colour blocking by ditching the pure gold and involving rubies or emeralds in their jewellery.
• The new-age Marathi brides are embracing the stacking trend to the fullest. Instead of going for the stack of green bangles, they sandwich them between diamond-studded patlya or meenakari tode. Using matte gold, glass, and shiny stones gives the arms a multi-dimensional look.
• Fusion, or mixing, Indian and Western pieces, is also a new-age trend among brides. They are choosing to style a classic brahmani nath with a contemporary silk jumpsuit. Or wearing a putli-haar with a velvet Sherwani-style jacket for the reception.
• The heavy Ambada is also getting reinvented today. The brides are going for pearl-strung kan chains that attach to the hair, or a minimal brahmani nath, which is smaller and lighter for all-day comfort.

Gold Purity & Weight Guide for Maharashtrian Bridal Jewellery

In a Maharashtrian wedding ceremony, jewellery is not an ornament; marathi bridal gold jewellery symbolises the goddess Lakshmi, thus welcoming wealth and prosperity. The gold used in this jewellery should be pure and appropriate for the wedding. Here is a quick guide to help you ensure you buy the best-quality traditional maharashtrian bridal jewellery set.

1. Check the purity by the Karat rule:

• Most pure jewellery is made in 22k gold. But different items have different purity standards for gold.
  Jewellery such as Tode, Patlya, and Mohan Maal is made in 22K gold. It is the perfect balance of rich yellow colour and enough strength to hold intricate engravings.
• 18K gold, which is 75% pure, is used for jewellery studded with diamonds.

2. The Weight Guide

Weight is measured in tola. Recommended purity for all Maharashtrian ornaments is 22k, but the weight should be 3g to 8g. Thushi or choker should be 15-40g. Kolhapuri Saaj ranges between 25g and 60g. Mohan Maal with 3 to 5 layers should be between 30g and 80g.  A pair of Tode should be between 50g and 150g, which is the heaviest item in the entire jewellery range.

A pair of Patlya should weigh 25-50g. Vaki or armlet should weigh between 15g and 30g. Kudya earrings should range between 5g and 12g. At the same time, the weight of Ambada Pin should range between 10g and 25g.

3. A few other things to consider:

• While buying any jewellery piece, don’t forget to check for the BIS hallmark.
• Jewellery pieces like Thushi or Mohan Maal are often made with hollow beads. That way, they look heavy but not massive.
• In case of the Gonda thread, the traditional Maharashtrian necklace uses a silk thread instead of a gold chain at the back. So, make sure the jeweller charges only for the net gold weight, not the weight of the thread or stones.
• Many traditional pieces use kemp stones to achieve a deep red look. When weighing such jewellery, deduct the stone weight from the total gold price.

How to Choose Bridal Jewellery Based on Saree & Wedding Function

Most Maharashtrian weddings feature the Nauvari saree and the Shalu. Here are some tips to buy bridal jewellery and match it to your outfit and the events you might be attending, from morning to evening.

1. The Traditional Nauvari Saree

Brahmani Nath, Vaki, and Tode can be essential jewellery for a Nauvari Saree. You can layer the neck with Thushi and Kolhapuri Saaj. A Suryaphool or Ambada pin would be perfect to give a clean hairstyle.

2. Paithani or Shalu

Paithani or Shalu sarees have intricate zari work. So, you need to choose jewellery accordingly. Kudya and Patlya are best as essential jewellery. Mohan maal or Putli Haar are best for the neck. A gajra for hair and a Bugadi at the upper ear would complete the royal look.

3. For different wedding functions and rituals

• For the main wedding ceremony, you can go for the full set of jewellery. Incorporate the perfect look with the help of Brahmani Nath, Tode and Vaki.
• For the engagement ceremony, you keep the look simple, while including Thushi and Kudya. Go for a delicate Patlya or a gold watch for the contemporary look.
• For the reception or evening party, keep the look sophisticated. You can ditch the gold thushi or choker for something with many stones like rubies and emeralds.

Real Gold vs Lightweight Bridal Jewellery Options

Wearing real gold on an auspicious occasion like a wedding could be the best thing that the bride could want on her special day. However, gold prices can be staggering. So, the modern brides are going for alternative methods. They buy maharashtrian jewellery online. Lightweight jewellery that goes with their modern style. Here are some tips for investing wisely while you are shopping for wedding jewellery.

1. Gold that you plan to pass as heirloom, such as Tode or Patlya, can be your investment pieces. You can buy them, and they will last for generations.
2. You can opt for lightweight or one-gram jewellery in case of Kolhapuri Saaj, Vaki, and Ambada Pin.
3. You can go for hybrid options. Invest in real gold pieces like Mangalsutra, Kudya or a pair of heavy bangles and pair them with lightweight pieces, Nath, Vaki, and Ambada Pin.

FAQs

What jewellery does a Maharashtrian bride wear?

The Maharashtrian bride wears the "solah shringar" that includes head-to-toe accessories like the pearl mundavalya, the brahmani nath, and the suryaphool ambada pin. Her neck is adorned with the thushi, the kolhapuri saaj, the mohan maal, and the putli haar. Her arms are adorned with the vaki armlet, the tode, the flat patlya, and the green glass chuda. The look is finished off with the kudya pearl earrings and the silver jodvi toe rings.

What is the importance of Thushi in Maharashtrian weddings?

The thushi represents the bride’s transition to her role as Annapurna, the goddess of food and nourishment. The gold beads, closely woven in the thushi, represent abundance and are meant as a spiritual blessing for a life full of wealth and a growing family. It is an essential ornament that represents marital bliss and the responsibility of the bride to bring prosperity to the new home.

How much gold jewellery is needed for a Maharashtrian bride?

A traditional set has varying weights, ranging from a nath weighing 3g to 8g, thushi weighing 15g to 40g, Kolhapuri saaj weighing 25g to 60g, and layered mohan maal weighing 30g to 80g. The heaviest are a pair of tode, weighing 50g to 150g, followed by patlya weighing 25g to 50g, vaki weighing 15g to 30g, and small kudya and ambada pins. Contemporary brides are opting for one-gram or lightweight jewellery.

Can Maharashtrian bridal jewellery be worn after marriage?

Yes, the pieces are versatile and essential for various festivals and ceremonial occasions, as well as family gatherings, in a married woman’s lifetime. Although the entire ensemble is reserved for weddings, the pieces, such as kudya, patlya, and thushi, may be worn separately as identity markers on a day-to-day or celebratory basis. The modern trend may also include fusion wear, where the traditional necklaces or naths may be worn with modern western clothing.

Which gold purity is best for bridal jewellery?

For the making of traditional items such as tode, patlya, and mohan maal, 22K gold is the best choice, as it provides the golden lustre of 'Laxmi' along with the required strength for engraving. In the case of ornaments requiring heavy diamond settings or intricate stone work, 18K gold is the best option due to the structural strength of this alloy. However, it is essential to ensure that all ornaments, irrespective of their weight, bear the BIS hallmark.